How to install ceramic tile on cement basement floor

Finally, be realistic in your choice of basement flooring, as standing water simply dooms some materials to the Dumpster. In short, choose something that can get wet.

If your basement is out of level, you can use a self-leveling cement to create an even subfloor. Follow the instructions closely: It is important to prepare the old concrete surface and apply a bonding agent.

Basements rarely boast extra headroom, especially if the ceiling accommodates HVAC air ducts. Even if a floor adds just a couple of inches, this slight increase can spell the difference between meeting or falling short of the minimum ceiling height prescribed by your local building codes. Identify a low-profile basement flooring solution, if necessary. You also risk the unseen buildup of mold beneath the flooring—a considerable risk to the air quality of your home.

Although self-adhesive tile can be put on your current concrete floor, it is most often necessary to provide a better base for the tile. It is important that the concrete subfloor will connect the self adhesive vinyl tile is flat, firm, clean, dust-free and without protruding nails, because only here do self-adhesive tiles or planks stick, so that there are no ambiguities.

The concrete floor has large cracks, so the best way is to remove most of the slab, and then replace it with a new concrete slab. If you still have stubborn glue left over cement floor from the old floor covering, be sure to clean it up. Check the concrete floor and look for conditions of cracks, pits, holes or other uneven spots on the floor.

If there are large cracks or cavities, the best practice is to remove the slab of this part and lay it again. If it is only small cracks and empty, you can use concrete filler or similar floor repair agent to repair the damage. Before repairing cracks and pits, use chisels or angle grinders to lightly cut the cracks slightly be sure to be gentle so as not to worsen the cracks , which not only helps to clean the debris in the cracks, but also facilitates the accommodation of new fillings material.

Then use a brush to clean out the debris in the crack, and a broom or vacuum cleaner to clean the surface of the crack and pit. Use concrete fillers repair cracks on the floor. Pour concrete filler or liquid leveler into the gaps, holes, or low spaces on the concrete floor, smooth the filler material over the floor with a trowel for a completely even surface.

Let stand for 24 hours. The surface of the cement floor where self-adhesive vinyl tile is installed must be as smooth and flat as possible. First use a spirit level to find uneven areas on the concrete floor. Use 40 or 60 grit to sand any uneven areas, including bumps, or lumps, with sandpaper or an electric sander.

Cover the entire floor surface of the floor with the tiles in a dry run using your chosen layout. Check the edge of the tile and adjust your center line if the tiles on either side fall below half the total number.

Cut tiles near the edge. You can as well use tile nippers if you have to make small intricate cuts. Use a wet saw to cut the tiles to fit snugly in narrow spaces.

Troubleshoot to ensure your cut tiles are a perfect fit before laying your tiles. Step 5: Ceramic Tile Installation o ver Concrete You will start by removing a section of the tiles to give you a starting point. Mix your mortar and keep it at your convenience. Remember to put on knee pads to spare you excessive fatigue and perhaps knee injury while carrying on with the task.

Smooth it using a smooth trowel. Using your notched trowel, comb the thin-set and ensure your lines runs horizontally throughout the surface.

Install the first tile against the corner of your center line and push it slightly down to ensure it adheres. Ensure you keep a bucket of water and a damp sponge mop near you to clean the tiles that get thin-set on top. Wipe the surface of your tiles to ensure your flooring is neat. Place the spacers between tiles as you continue laying the tiles to get a thick and even grout line at the end of your task.

Keep mixing until you achieve the desired consistency. You can either mix it on a flat metal or wood palette, or inside a bucket. Avoid mixing too much mortar too early, as the mixture may harden before you need it. If it does start to harden, discard it and mix a new batch. Once the mortar mixture is ready, dump or scoop it onto the surface. Spread the tile mortar using the flat side of a notch trowel at a 45 degree angle.

The size of the notch trowel will depend on the size of the tile. Larger tiles usually require a longer notch profile, allowing for a thicker mortar bed. Cover only a small area when spreading the mixture, around 3 or 4 feet in length and width. Any further than that and you risk the mortar hardening before you place the tile.

Place the tile firmly on the mortar, moving it slightly back and forth so it attaches to the mortar properly. Use a level to ensure that it is correctly aligned with the surface.

Complete setting the center tiles that do not have to be trimmed first. Afterwards, work on the tiles to be placed along the perimeter. These are usually the ones that need to be cut. Cut the tiles using a tile cutter or tile saw. Using a tile cutter is faster, and it gives a cleaner cut.

The wet saw is used for irregular or curved cuts. For very minor cuts, use a tile nipper. Double check that the cut tile will precisely fit the remaining gap. Clean any excess mortar from the tiles as you go along. You can use a dampe rag, spong or scrub pad.